Wu Qingye, Winner Fashion Group: Consumers' demand for quality will only continue to rise, which is a definite trend
2024-01-23
Zhiyi Technology
"This article is a summary of the interview given by Wu Qingye, Executive Vice President of Winner Fashion Group, during his participation in the "2023 China Fashion Industry Brand Conference", and the content is slightly edited and edited.
1.情怀也需要解决消费的问题。
2.Segmentation and personalization are not exactly the same.
3The most effective and basic social responsibility that the apparel industry can do is to reduce inventory.
4.consumerThe demand for quality will only continue to rise, which is a definite trend.
The full text is more than 5,000 words, full of Mr. Wu Qingye's insights on brand building, with a large amount of information, and it is recommended to collect ~
To be a brand, we must be a consumer-facing brand.
However, whether to choose to serve the mass market or to a specific and individual group is a very important positioning issue.
If you only want to do a narrow market, you only need to grasp and focus on the core needs and characteristics of customers, and be accurate and refined, so as to form an effective market and effective product satisfaction.
However, if you only pursue a niche, it will bring differentiation and uniqueness, and then there will be a problem with the size of the market.
Regarding the consideration of feelings, I always believe that the material base determines the superstructure, and Chinese society has not yet reached the stage where it can rely on feelings to experiment.Feelings also need to solve the problem of consumption。
SoThe essence of being a brand is to have judgment and insight into market demand, and to be clear about customers and the corresponding market capacity。
Taking women's clothing as an example, there is a mass market, a sinking market, and a mid-to-high-end market.
There are three main levels of understanding:
The first is explicit demand, that is, the surface needs that everyone knows and can do, and they fight for their own abilities.
The mass market is large and competitive. In such a market, the new brand wants to be strong, either with strong financial strength, or with its own strong channels or business relationships, otherwise it can only be difficult to shop.
in managementCost leadership, which is what it refers toCompete in supply chain and operational efficiency between enterprisesandEconomical cost control capabilities。
The second is very important product differentiation。
But in the fashion industry, it's easy to get mistaken for a clothing product that needs to be different from others.
As a matter of factThe essence of the so-called differentiation is the ability to focus on customers and the precision of customer needs。
combineThe third point is the potential demandLet's look at it together, for the market you are in, whether it is focusing on the mid-range or high-end, or even specific to a certain scene of women's clothing - dresses, you must meet the core needs of customers, such as the trends, trends and characteristics of female consumer groups.
For example, when we founded the NAERSI brand in 1995, the richness of people's clothing at that time was generally not high, and it was relatively similar, and most of the men were tunics, suits, or military uniforms with military insignia and rank removed; For women, it is gray or dark blue overalls.
At that time, Hong Kong returned to China, and Shenzhen was the first to feel the wave of globalization, and a large number of international orders opened the door to a new world - the original clothing also has the concept of "fashion".
Clothing is the clothes that are worn, and fashion is fashionable clothes, which are related to the occasion and can show the identity and grade。
As a result, we found that China's women's clothing market may lack a certain amount of improvement in the requirements for strong economic consumption and social occasions and imagesMature women"Workplace attire".
也是在那时，中国的职场文化、职场着装兴起。At that time, the TV series "Alien Girl" was on the air, and the film showed the dress of many white-collar workers in Hong Kong-funded enterprises就是我们NAERSI品牌定位的成熟女性职场装方向。
Therefore, the positioning of the NAERSI brand has been clear from the beginning, and it has been aimed at the potential needs of professional women in the 90s from the beginning.
But in the final analysis, behind the change process of people's clothing is the general trend of socialization change.Clothing and fashion have always been part of building a social culture, are to find the needs of the customer group you are facing in the overall megatrend, including the current characteristics and future characteristics.
With the development of society, we also found that consumers began to seek the presentation of personal characteristics in addition to the commonality of beauty, and formed a clearer self. Just as behind the popular trend of independent women, there is the embodiment of women's spiritual pursuit. This is exactly what it doesThe objective law of Marxism that "the material base determines the superstructure"., so brings the segmentation of the crowd.
But I thinkCrowd segmentation and personalization cannotcompletelyequateThe crowd emphasizes the group, and the personalized one highlights the individual, so we must pay attention to the following:Be respectful of the crowd, not the individual。
Fashion and aesthetics are sometimes a matter of ideology,所以我觉得做市场需要克制，心里装的一定是客群and try to avoid personalPride and prejudice.
The fashion industry is all about creativity, accepting change, superimposition, combination and even reconstruction, but there must be a callback for consumers. Ren Zhengfei said that technology companies "half a step ahead is advanced, and three steps ahead is 'martyrs'", and the same is true for fashion, which needs to face the real consumer market and avoid products that attract attention but do not attract consumers.
Only by grasping the adaptability between eye-catching fashion and practicality can we generate better customer satisfactionThis is the perception we have learned from the past brand building, and it can also be said to be a lesson.
因此，我们在创立一个品牌后，会定期进行战略复盘，不断反问自己和品牌负责人5个问题：
If a brand answers these 5 questions clearly, the brand positioning will naturally be clear, to itselfThe size of the market capacity, I can also know it in my heart.
The final success of brand management is inseparable from the financial strength and operation and management capabilities of the enterpriseThe birth of a brand must come from market positioning。
个性化品牌，有时候可能是做的自我，这不是对错问题，但可能没有让大家感到品牌与消费者之间链接。而做起来的那些品牌，跟消费者之间是能呈现出一种生命力的链接，Achieve the double superposition of brand understanding and customer understanding, so it can achieve more market share。
Times are changing,时尚是跟着时代走的，因此The fashion services and products to be provided by the brand should also change with the times, and must not be immutable. Even international luxury brands, even if they change a lot on the outside, they remain the same on the inside.
The inner immutability is actually very simple, that is, no matter how the times change, this kind of thingThe customer's pursuit of essence remains the same。 As"The people's pursuit of a better and happier life" will never changeThis is the law at the bottom of society.
Based on this, we note:The diverse needs of people will not change。 For example, although consumers' demand for popular colors, versions, and silhouettes will change in stages, and the demand for clothing for work, shopping, and travel will be adjusted with the occasion, the demand for occasion clothing will not change.
Then "multi-occasion" is the demand opportunity that the brand needs to tap. As for how to combine different occasions, this is precisely the flexibility of the clothing products provided by the brand.
In the face of uncertainty, many people hope that the consumption environment will be determined and the situation will be stable... In my opinion, these are all matters that have nothing to do with us, and the certainty that we can grasp isFrom the social development to see the underlying law, and then firmly around the underlying law to do logical things，不要乱来。
若干年前的中国经济，风口太多了，那时挣钱做生意太容易了，是某个时期专属的时代红利。A lot of people think nowBusiness is hard to do precisely because it was too easy for us to make money in the past.
We should ask ourselves more:
1.What did you accumulate when it was easy to make money?
2.If there is no corresponding ability and cognitive improvement, why can you still make money now?
3.If you don't take improving your ability as a definitive requirement, and you don't continue to expand your career and cognition, how can you make money?
Even now, there will always be opportunities. Tmall, Taobao e-commerce, and later private domain, Douyin e-commerce...Every era has opportunities for every era。
Taking the capture of consumer needs as an example, in the past, we relied on the founder's somatosensory insight, and he combined his pain points with social customers to extract common needs.As we came into contact with more and more garment processing projects in Hong Kong, we gradually realized the importance of fashion and began to optimize and improve our clothing.
It can be found thatIn the past, we focused on demand first来源It is self-experience, the second is to have external learning and benchmarking opportunities, and then there is market sales feedback, such as structure, part size and version, etc.,fastfinishunderstand the specific needs of consumers,Constantly adjust the most appropriate outfit.
Now, we willMore emphasis is placed on scientific market demand verification through technology or modern tools。
举例子，我们现在有系统的战略/规划方法论、定期的战略复盘，过程中还可以引入专业的市场调研机构，借助数字化工具来广泛地分析消费者的需求特征。
Twenty years ago, we could only do market research through customer interviews, paper questionnaires and street interviews, which not only had a limited sample, but was also too random and the authenticity of the market was unconfirmed.
Today's digital methods, such as e-coupons or online events, can easily receive tens or hundreds of thousands of feedback, the sample is sufficient, and customers do not need to face to face, and the feedback given after reducing the psychological burden is more real and objective.
At the same time, due to the sufficient sample size, combined with modern data processing capabilities, we are able to:Based on the interaction and cross-analysis of data, more desirable and more certain information is obtained。
Compared with the previous report can only be single-dimensional, now we can at least do three-dimensional, yesCross different data together to find problems or opportunities。而这，就是社会发展进步带给我们的能力提升。
Combined with the particularly popular AIGC topic this year, it can be applied to the e-commerce field, and the efficiency of photography, live broadcasting, and retouching can be greatly improved.
比如我们的数千家实体店可以借此实现千店千面的直播效果。我们都知道每个地域都有一定的社会属性，消费者的身高、妆容、偏好都有细微差别。通过虚拟成像，再结合不同的背景、氛围与场景模板，能让各地的消费者更有带入感。
As for how to achieve more accurate delivery, it needs to be optimized with the help of data products such as Tmall or Zhiyi.
Overall, compared to the past, modern digital new technologies, including AI, have brought some changes to the fashion industry that can empower the market.In addition to cost savings, streamlined workflows, and increased productivity, new demands can be created。
At the same time, thisThe more progressive era also requires us to have more professional capabilities in the face of consumers and the marketin order to better meet the needs of customers. This is not an opportunity given to us by the times.
In the past two years, many clothing companies have the idea of transforming into mid-to-high-end women's clothing, and I think there is some logic to be clarified.
We have to ask ourselves, is it a brand or just a brand?牌子与品牌的区别在于，A brand may be just a logo, but a brand is the emotional bond between your brand and your customers。
Now the reason why everyone wants to transform into the middle and high-end, I personally understand that there are four aspects.
第一，人工、租金、运营的基本成本逐日上涨，The essence of doing business and the essence of establishing a business is to make a profit。
An enterprise that continues to lose money, an enterprise that continues to consume social resources, has no added value to the society.时尚行业经常强调的环保、ESG社会责任，而服装行业能做的、最有效的、最基本的社会责任就是减少库存。
The second reason isConsumers' demand for quality。
There are generally four basic characteristics of customer demand, such as economy, and consumers' pursuit of cost performance is a typical manifestation of economy.
Quality is now the selection of good things that many platforms are emphasizing.It is the consumer's yearning for a better material life, and the essence is that consumption is becoming more mature, and it is more inclined to appreciate and understand good products。 At the same time, we should also pay attention to the fact that low-line consumption also has requirements for quality.
AndThe trend of people's demand for quality will only continue to rise, which is a definite trend。 Therefore, brands want to transform into high quality, which is an inevitable trend and a manifestation of the maturity of China's social consumption power.
The third reason is convenience.
这与互联网的产生、购物中心等有关，包含商业体的密集度，都提高了消费的便利性。
The fourth is emotional, which is the most difficult need to understand, but it is also the most valuable need, which is mainly reflected in four dimensions:
一，消费者渴望穿出自己的个性主张；
Second, consumers will pay for the premium of the brand, and will pay the premium because they agree with the values, propositions, and mentality of the brand;
Third, the diversified scene needs, as well as diversified social exploration and spiritual pursuit;
Fourth, more direct emotionality, such as occasional emotional catharsis such as bumping shirts or happy sadness.
Clothing, food, housing and transportation, the clothing industry is absolutely just needed.一个刚需的市场意味着需求的高度确定性Coupled with China's leading global competitiveness in the textile and garment industry chain, as well as the people's continuous pursuit of a better material life,Therefore, whether it is women's clothing or men's clothing, there is only one path in the future, go up and improve the quality。
Of course, there is also a market going down, but if you want to go shopping, it depends on whether you have the ability.
反过来往品质上走，那么产品就There is an opportunity to differentiate, and it is possible to leave a certain amount of space to display the designer's inner talent and ambition。 After all, low-priced products have to ensure that every move of the cost balance line is in the state of the state, and it is difficult to make a difference in the most basic products.
Of course, there is also a very important reason that all wholesale markets, circulation markets and even ecological chains see that they are making money in the middle and high-end, but this is only the result.
Therefore, even if it is bigger and more high-end, many corporate friends or brand managers should also ask themselves, have they seen what the underlying logic is, I think this is what needs to be grasped.
The first is the objective and rational understanding of the market, the accurate grasp of customer groups and consumer trends, and the ability to translate into product designIn order to achieve a reasonable adaptation between these three, it is necessary to polish for a long time.
It can be simply understood that successful brands are generally formed on the exercise of this abilityA very complete set of PDC (Plan, Do, Check) internal management cycle。
The second is the relationship between the brand and the customer, similar to the private domain operation in the past few years, we have a lot of technology and ability in maintaining customers, serving customers, and how to enhance customer stickiness, which also takes time to accumulate slowly.
In other words,Building a relationship of trust with customers is a long-term behaviorEven if it is bigger and more high-end, we should always remind ourselves:"What real, long-term value can I offer to my consumers in the future?”
This value must not be one-time, and it cannot be expensive because of the positioning of high-end以次充好、不能有货不对板的营销，avoidCustomers are distrustful. otherwiseA single deal doesn't make sense because the customer will abandon you next.
There is a way that I think is very simple, and it can also reflect the pattern and wisdom of doing business, that is, you must have positive emotional feedback when you earn money from customers, so we often saySales are proof that customers support us, and profit is proof that customers thank us。
In addition to this, we will always have to review ourselves,Be in awe of the marketI will often ask myself whether the hot sale of a certain style is luck, or whether it is really liked by customers, which has achieved value creation, wisdom output and ability improvement.
In fact, the satisfaction of consumer needs is related to the ability of the brand. How to plan, how to design, how to adjust, how to modify, and how to meet the needs are all major topics worth studying.
If a certain garment is a bestseller, but if it is not the point we originally wanted to embody, or if it is not the main reason for the customer to place an order, even if it is profitable, we have to review it.
So I thinkIf an enterprise wants to continue to grow, it must have a very strong self-correction and self-criticism ability, and not be arrogant and prejudiced。
For the transformation of high-end clothing brands, we can give you advice,The most important thing is: build brand power。
Brand power is a seemingly ethereal concept, but in fact, it is "The emotional connection of the customer groupIt's important to beLet customers feel that you are doing what you say and do。 If the goods are not right, it is equivalent to the collapse of the star's personality.
For example, no matter what the big brands do, their quality is always online, and they really achieve high quality in the category supply of similar brands or similar products.
回过来说，如果要想转型中高端女装，品牌力建设是不容或缺的。
Why do many Internet brands start to move offline when they reach a certain scale online? BecauseAt present, online cannot build brand power, offline is an important channel to build brand power, and this is a long-lasting process。
Another important issue that comes with the long process is to establish a self-correction mechanism to ensure that your brand power echoes the customer's mind, so that the customer feels that the brand is consistent with the brand you are showcasing.
The construction of brand power is also the cultivation of humanity and culture. Therefore, with the help of China's cultural genes, creating a brand story can add points to the brand power.
We all know the four major fashion weeks in Europe and the United States: Paris, Milan, London, and New York, and if we trace the reasons below, we will find that fashion comes from society, history and humanity, and it is a very macro thing that cannot be thought of in a single dimension.
At the moment of the rise of the Chinese nation, why can't Chinese culture?Undertake itChanges in social history? In China's modern civilization or China's globalization, fashion is an important part of culture.
If you stand in this perspective, the entire clothing and fashion industry chain is not only clothing, I think it is a pan-market, gold jewelry, watches and fashion and life consumption related should be included.
Based on this, we should indeed further upgrade and upgrade the market and social development, and hope that more enterprises and brands can do a good job in grasping the grassroots of productsDo more brand building, do the construction of fashion culture, do the construction of consumer culture, and do the accumulation of Chinese fashion humanities, because it does take a long time to accumulate, it can take anywhere from fifty to a hundred years, or more.
