Nanny-level appreciation of the design details of "Dior Fall/Winter 2022/23 Show" | Trend interpretation
2022-03-25
Zhiyi Technology
At the beginning of March, the first blockbuster show of Paris Fashion Week -Dior Fall-Winter 2022/23 Ready-to-Wear Collection在巴黎杜乐丽花园正式拉开帷幕，A total of 83 new looks were introduced.
今天，知衣将从「Dior 2022/23 秋冬成衣系列」展开，对Runway items & accessories, colors, patterns, details等进行分析解读，并结合服装设计的实际情况给出市场参考和运用It provides a source of inspiration for the majority of fashion designers to plan their styles.
The key words of this show are:The next generation, futuristic technology, sports mix-and-match, feminism and classicism。
延续了Dior 2022春夏系列「运动与时装」的设计主题，本次秋冬系列带来了更为深刻的思考。女装创意总监Maria Grazia Chiuri将Dior的经典风格与D-AIR实验室碰撞结合，让上世纪的艺术遗产与现代科技时装对话，从技术与美学角度重塑着身体与服装的关系，打造了一个让时尚与科技结合，历史与未来碰撞的 “次时代”。
In the theme of "Next Era" conceived by Italian feminist artist Mariella Bettineschi, a large number of portraits of women spanning the 16th and 19th centuries are staggered and hung on the walls, and the entire show is recreated as a modern gallery that travels through time.
模特们身着科技感功能性服饰在其间穿行，在肃静的氛围里凸显出一种敢于探索女性未来的勇气，展现出了复古又前卫的未来女性强大力量。
比起过往明亮轻快、浪漫梦幻、极致典雅的Dior女郎形象，知衣大数据分析Dior 2022/23秋冬成衣系列发布会中的⾊彩趋势后发现，Calm and understated neutrals dominate the palette of colours, while versatile shades such as black grey, earth tones and denim blue are the key colours。
Elegant black accounted for the largest proportion, with a total of 52 single products, accounting for 46.02%; followed by the classic and versatile khaki color, with a total of 16 items, accounting for 14.16%; There are 11 models of temperament gray, accounting for 9.73%; Denim blue and high-grade white each appeared 9 items, accounting for 7.96% respectively.
The sense of luxury in gray is innate, whether it is the ultimate restrained elegance or the cold and avant-garde fashion, it can be expressed with the help of gray.
In this season's runway, dark gray, which is an all-purpose neutral color that can present a calm temperament, was used in a large area, and was creatively fused with the fabrics that are often used to make men's suits, perfectly interpreting a sense of feminine luxury that combines rigidity and softness.
When the combination of khaki and stiff fabrics with a strong sense of autumn and winter, the elegance of Dior is integrated into the outfit in a rigid and orderly manner. This neutral color, which is more elegant than black and more beige than texture, is especially suitable for matching with all colors, not only neutralizing bright colors, but also weakening the sense of grandeur brought by gorgeous elements.
兼具率性与优雅格调的牛仔蓝能让人想起90年代在汉普顿休假的纽约女性，与除单宁面料之外的面料搭配，能将舒适感与摩登感之间的平衡和谐发挥到极致，为日常生活注入休闲、动感节奏，让简洁蜕变升华。
The key look in the Dior Fall/Winter 2022/23 ready-to-wear runway was a sporty mix.Chiuri, the creative director of women's wear, is committed to exploring the charm of mixing sports aesthetics and extreme elegance, integrating timeless feminine elegance with a sense of technology and futuristic styling, colliding with a "next era" of dialogue with the future.
当Dior经典的灰色西装、雪纺连衣裙与机车夹克、防护肩垫、赛车手套的混搭建立起微妙联系，未来街装运动的前卫设计与优雅发生化学反应，这何尝不是品牌对经典的重新演绎。
⽜仔套装：丹宁元素是亮点之一，牛仔在硬挺廓形的基础上展示干练气质，平衡了繁复印花的隆重感。
Silhouette Jacket:气场全开的廓形夹克与口袋被着重强调，解构式的设计在本次主题下变得别有深意。
Light dress dresses:裙摆上布满瑰丽繁复的花纹，结合简练的轮廓与轻盈面料，不仅凸显了纤细腰线，也呈现出一种全新的摩登、高雅形象。
Classic Clothes:Various checks and embroidery elements are embellished on the khaki trench coat, and the branches and wings that are inadvertently exposed between the models make the tough autumn and winter clothing look more soft and romantic.
Floral Pattern Bags:The iconic Lady Dior bag and Book Tote feature extensive botanical prints on their surfaces, echoing the embroidery on the shoes and the emotional extension of Dior's presence in the Tuileries Garden.
"Anti-twist" ankle strap shoes:脚踝位置的科技面料纽带和可调节脚踝支撑技术将经典与创新合二为一，防扭功能性让科技充满人性温度，创造性地构建出了一种崭新的时装秩序。
机能运动鞋履：充满户外机能风的短靴配上金属安全扣，增添了硬挺气质和现代感，仿佛在为女人走向未来的步伐保驾护航。
赛车手套：Racer-style gloves are adorned on the sleeves and the colour is bold and sporty, making each look particularly special whether paired with a skirt or otherwise.
Key motif: black and white check
One of the key motifs in the Dior Fall/Winter 2022/23 ready-to-wear runway: the black and white check, is a very elegant, gentlemanly British check design, with a retro style and a preppy feel.
本次Dior 2022/23秋冬成衣系列秀场中的关键图案之二：茹伊印花，充满东⽅韵味的“中国⻛”花⻦写意感⼗⾜，在千变万化的印花/刺绣演绎之下处处透露着精致。
The third key pattern in the Dior Fall/Winter 2022/23 ready-to-wear collection: classical patterns, in the combination of traditional patterns and modern craftsmanship, classicism and gorgeous baroque are presented through multiple materials.华贵又不失典雅，令人梦回古时优雅庄严的盛大场景。
The key detail: the corseted waist
Perhaps inspired by portraits of women from the 16th to the 19th centuries, it was largely inspired by the women's corsets of the European past, as evidenced by some of the technical corset ties on the runway.
Dior此次以科技材质重现绑带盔甲，从材质到廓形都极为现代感，超⾼腰、紧身的设计冲突性地搭配蕾丝上衣、薄纱仙裙等女性化元素较强烈的装束，预示着当代女性有柔软、亦有力量。
Irregular skirts:半裙主要通过丰富的剪裁和不规则的裙摆来彰显着女性不为人知的叛逆、不羁与自由。
粗纺针织：Italy's latest textile industry technology, sparse textile density, and three-dimensional coarse patterns all represent Dior's technological refinement.
Acid-etched denim:The imitation acid etching effect gives the denim suit a nostalgic atmosphere, vaguely containing the elegance of the old gentleman.
Market Reference and Application:
Suits are usually representative of working women, with a capable and formal temperament; The shaped pleats of the pleated skirt give the skirt a regular and irregular look, and the shape is varied.
自疫情后，一向吃香的度假风陷入停摆状态，也叫停了Dior无数的网纱仙女风腰裙。fromgive birthFrom the perspective of product structure planning,Dior's product structure lacks a large number of bottoms to complete the outfit, thusThe classic pleated skirt entered Maria Grazia Chiuri's field of vision.
In daily life, a suit with a pleated skirt can generally increase the overall sense of layering, deducing an elegant, high-end and fashionable sense.
Functional/racing elements
Market Reference and Application:
灵感主要来源于F1方程式的赛车服，被运用在秀场中则带来了全新的街头设计概念。
从产品结构规划的角度来看，机能感/赛车元素的加入，能够提升整体的品牌秀场时髦度，也符合近几年各大奢侈品品牌追求的年轻化策略。
As motorsport elements are gradually integrated into the design of everyday items, the sense of function, contrasting color elements, letter labeling and street trend temperament collide to create a trend-forward female wearJoin together.
绗缝棉服主要利用绗缝工艺把羊毛、棉花、羽绒等保暖性材料缝合在一起， 使蓬松的填充物变得轻薄且有立体感，从而达到显瘦不臃肿的效果。
In everyday life, quilted cotton clothing is a moderately thick, cross-seasonal insulating piece that can be worn with a loose fit or through partial panels for a casual look.
